Part TWO: The Feet That Drive the Pulse: An overview of Pedal Mechanics, Power, and Precision

The feet are, by far, the hardest part of the body to bring up to a secure level of proficiency on the kit and for good reason. We’re already preoccupied with the two sticks in our hands, hitting all the toys up top... and now you’re telling me the legs need to do stuff too?

Now sure, it’s true that the feet typically play fewer notes than the hands, unless you’re into certain strains of metal where it’s a 50:50 split, but generally speaking, the hands are doing more.

So, like we did with the hands, let’s start with the anatomy.

Leg Mechanics

The leg mirrors the kinematic chain of the arm in a few ways, but also differs due to the nature of pressing a pedal versus holding a stick. So while there are similar "gears" (joints), the utility isn’t the same.

• Gear 1: Hip Joint (Ball & Socket)

  Unlike the shoulder, which moves mostly around the kit, the hip’s role in foot technique is more of a vertical piston up and down.

• Gear 2: Knee Joint

  This is your elbow equivalent, but it’s far less central to foot technique than the elbow is to hand technique. Still, it’s part of the chain, and we acknowledge its supporting role.

• Gear 3: Ankle Joint

  The star of the show. The ultimate arbiter of control and accuracy and arguably a much more defined motion that will deep root your independence.

  Pedal Setup

  Anytime someone acts like there’s a one-size-fits-all science to gear setup, that's usually a red flag. But hear me out there are some pragmatic mechanical considerations worth getting right.

  1. Kick Beater Contact Angle

  When your beater hits the centre of the drum, it should be striking at or near a straight vertical angle (90°).

• Too shallow (acute): You’ll get less range of motion, quicker rebound, and an inconsistent feel.

• Too far back (obtuse): You’ll get more power, but with slower rebound and more leg effort to push through.

  This can be adjusted by changing the leg height on your kick drum and/ or tweaking the clamp position.

2. Resting Beater Angle
When the pedal is at rest (no foot on it), aim for a 45° angle between the beater and the

drum head.

• Too close: Less rebound, less volume.

• Too far back: More power, but you’ll work harder, and the rebound runs the risk of smashing you in your shin.

  3. Spring Tension

  Totally subjective but here’s a good test:

• Rest your full leg on the pedal. Don’t brace or prep like you're playing.

• Observe where the beater ends up.

  If your leg weight buries it into the head, your spring is too loose. If the beater barely moves and sits several inches back, your spring's too tight. A good starting point is having the beater sit about 1 inch from the head when your leg is relaxed on the pedal. From there, adjust for comfort and responsiveness.

  4. Beater Height

  Less critical than angle or spring tension, but still worth tweaking. Beater height is mainly about tone, ideally, you want it striking dead centre on your kick.

• Shorter beater = quicker action.

• Longer beater = slower action, more power.


  Hi-Hat Setup

  This one's simpler, but here’s a common amateur move: barely opening the hi-hat. Sure, it takes the load off your left leg, but it’s like skipping leg day at the gym. Eventually, it leads to asymmetry and limits your musical options.

  Set a decent opening at least an inch so you’re actually working the motion and getting a defined "chick." Build that control and strength.

  Postural Considerations

  Make sure your ankles are in front of your knees, and your knees are lower than your hips. That means your thighs should slope gently downward, creating an obtuse leg angle (more than 90°). Keeps the joints happy and the motion efficient. Don’t attempt to build your foot technique without this in place, if you’ve been crouching with your legs in an acute bend, raise your stool, and the rest of the kit to fix this.

Actual Approaches Heel Down / Heel Up

• Heel Down: Control, low dynamics, and ankle strength. Great for clean articulation and muscle memory.

• Heel Up: Power and speed. This involves a combination of hip lift, calf drive, and toe finish. Less subtle, more firepower.

  Heel-Up Ankle Technique

  This is kind of the midpoint — it still uses the heel-up position but leans more heavily on ankle flexion rather than full leg drive. It’s become its own category in modern vocabulary particularly in metal double kick playing.

  Slide, Swivel, Heel-Toe

  These are the go-to options for fast doubles.

  Heel-Toe (aka the Two-for-One Trick)

  This one’s popular because you get two strokes for one fluid motion:

1. Heel Strike: Drop the heel - the beater hits the head.

2. Toe Strike: Rock forward onto the ball of your foot for the second hit.

It feels like a rolling chair motion and can happen incredibly fast with minimal effort.

• Mechanical Efficiency:

  Different muscles tag in for each motion. The rebound helps, and you’re not relying on one joint the whole time.

• Neurological Economy:

  You start thinking in pairs of strokes, not isolated hits. It builds fluency and endurance at speed.

• Why It Works:

  You’re squeezing out double the output from a single movement cycle. Great for fast doubles, blasts, and fills.

  Base Plate Position

  Always keep some part of your foot in contact with the pedal plate. Lifting off entirely causes the beater to swing back wildly, like a pendulum—unpredictable, uncontrollable, and definitely not what you want when chasing consistency.

  Avoid creeping too high up the footboard. You risk the beater snapping back into your shin or your toe snagging the chain—neither is fun. There’s a case to be made for playing anywhere from two-thirds up the plate, dead center, or even right down by the heel plate. The general trend? The further down you go, the more you prioritize speed and economy of motion.

If you haven’t already done so, then please do check out Part 1 of this short blog series on hands and feet drumming technique.